Adventures at Jumbo

Be advised: this post contains material that may not be suitable for younger readers.

After 5 straight days of sunshine, the rains have returned to Temuco. The past few days the neighborhood has been sleepy and quiet. Tuesday was Fiestas Patrias, the Chilean Independence day. Most every store in town was closed on Tuesday with many of them closing early on Monday evening and many more remaining closed yesterday. But we didn’t know that small piece of information yesterday morning when I decided it would be a good time to stock up on supplies and restock the pantry. No, we sure didn’t and if we had, well, then this post may have read differently.

To give you some background, I come from a family of buyers. Acquiring fun and fine things at good prices is a trait passed down through my mother’s side of the family. While Sarah rolls her eyes at some of the items I have brought home over our years together, I cannot even begin to compare myself with my mom, but after she reads this post she may be at once both ashamed and envious of me.

More than anything, my mother loves to go grocery shopping. Over the past 3 years since moving to Madison, 8 out of 10 times I would call her cell phone, I would reach her while she was in a grocery store. She would answer the phone, hear my voice and ask, “You’ll never guess where I am? That’s right, I am at Dierberg’s picking up some supplies for dinner. ” Well, here in Temuco, because we have only one frying pan, one small pot and one large soup/pasta pot we can’t cook too much, so we don’t buy too much (is that good logic?). Furthermore, since the vegetable stands are only 3 and 5 blocks away, there is no pressing need for us to stock up. (Do I need to mention that I do need something to get me out of the apartment everyday?)

After yesterday though, I am thinking that I might as well rename this Blog – Adventures at Jumbo, no, maybe I should just refer to the blog as “Pepe va comprando.” (Pepe goes shopping.) Why Pepe and what is Jumbo, you may be asking? Especially when I already have the prefabricated Spanish name of Pablo? It could be because I always looked up to my older brother who is a Joe Junior and from what my Spanish books say Pepe is the Spanish name for Joe. But the real reason comes from the fact that my brother and I share the English dialect known as sailor’s English, some refer to it as gutter talk, potty mouth, battlefield language, etc. My brother and I identify well with the great joke’s punch line: We don’t call a spade a spade we call it a f_cking shovel. We both have reputations not only within our family but also in our work lives. You may be able to see where this is going…my adventures in shopping, especially at Jumbo, remind me of Pepe.

Shopping in Chile is a curious experience. As I mentioned, we typically go to the vegetable stand and a panaderia (bakery) every day or every other day. Then there are the corner stores and mini marts on every block, usually one quarter of someone’s home residence. There are numerous butcher shops too. At the panaderia I have become accustomed to picking out the small bread rolls that we want, usually 6 or 8, and taking them to the girl behind the counter who weighs them and gets a bar coded print out with the total amount of kilograms and therefore the total price. All of this happens without any need to talk.

Yesterday, I went out expecting to get all the food I wanted at the local vegetable stands, but because it was the day after Fiestas Patrias, all the local stores were closed. I walked the extra blocks to Jumbo, our local giant, corporate chain grocery and-everything-else-you-would-ever-want-for-your-home-including-tires store. I found the herbal teas we needed including the elusive Yerba Mate in bags, and I was even able to sniff out the dark chocolate. To those of you who may be thinking “if these are the worst of his troubles then…” I must say that this was not an easy task.

Chileans, I am happy to report like chocolate. However, it seems as though folks down here really don’t eat much dark chocolate. I had strict orders from the boss to get DARK only. For every 20 kinds of milk chocolate there was only ½ of a dark chocolate bar. Luckily there were a few choices of dark, along with thousands of choices of milk. However, this posed a dilemma. The boss never mentioned what kind of dark chocolate. Hmm, what to do and what brand is the best? (Enter right brain: Paul’s heredity.) Hmm. Well, I can’t go wrong with 3! (Like I said earlier, my mother will be proud when she reads this post.)

Next on my list were the milk and the veggies. Broccoli – got it. Potatoes – got those. Onions – only need one, check. Small lemons – yes. And the celery and garlic – check. I eventually found the toothpaste and bathing soap and made my way to the check out lane and cashier. And this is when my adventures took a turn. While the gentleman was scanning the chocolate, sponges, and herbal teas, he momentarily paused, held up the onion and said… well, he said something, and it was very fast and it threw me for a loop.

This is not supposed to happen. Here I am packing up my backpack with all these grocery items trying to reduce the use of the Jumbo plastic bags, which, by the way, they claim to be 100% biodegradable, and this guy has the nerve to ask me a question!?! In Spanish, no less! Didn’t he read that sign around my neck that I am clueless with questions, especially when they come to me in Spanish? Plan A, do what I learned to do during all my years living in South Asia, smile and say yes. And if that doesn’t work move on to Plan B, stand here quietly and count to 10. He will figure out the answer to his own question and I can smile and nod and not say anything and then he can go about scanning in the rest of the vegetables and I can pack my backpack and then he can take my money and I can walk home. Yes, this is what I will do. Plan A, first…

“Si.” I said with a smile.

Nothing.

I guess South Asian conversation skills don’t translate into Spanish!

The cashier was still holding this large yellow onion, and he repeated his question, only this time he spoke faster!

Help! I had no idea what to do nor what the heck this guy was asking. At this point my inner Pepe must have taken over the brain lobe controlling my body language and facial expressions and my face must have read something like, “How in the f_ck should I know?” Because at this point the cashier after seeing my face called over the check out lanes’ supervisor and handed the supervisor the onion. The supervisor went scurrying off. Disaster was avoided and the cashier went back to scanning the rest of the groceries. Then I felt really bad because I remembered that hidden under the tortilla chips were 4 small lemons, 4 potatoes and 2 large grapefruit. Oh shit!

Then he noticed them, and I knew that he had noticed them because he started to slow in his speed of scanning the bar coded items. But he didn't say anything. (Could this be progress? Hurray for Pepe!) Once he had finished scanning all that he could scan, he just stood there waiting and I was standing there waiting too. I felt awful and he was waiting for his supervisor to return and people started to line up in the check out lane because it looked like it would be fast and he turned them away and I saw complete puzzlement in their eyes. And I felt worse.

In the end he had to send 4 families away and the supervisor came back with a bar code scan specifically for the onion and then was assigned the job of getting barcodes for those grapefruit, lemons and potatoes. This supervisor was not amused and scurried off again. And it was at this point that I started to use the Spanish I know best.

“Discuple…perdón. Discuple…perdón.” (Excuse me…excuse me, sorry.)

The cashier was nice and said, “No, por favor…” and a lot of other words that may have even been a couple of sentences or more. In fact he may not have been nice at all and may have told me I was a jerk, but I do recall that he did say, “No, por favor…”

I am thinking I need to study more, but I know that I need to keep my expectations realistic. Before trying to figure out where that darn scale is with the barcode print out for the produce at Jumbo, maybe it would be easier for me to learn how to apologize better. Maybe something like, “Lo siento. Lo siento. Soy un idiota grande. Si. Perdón. Lo siento mucho. Mi cabeza no es beuno, está como la carne de res. No. Si, por favor, está. Mi madre no estaría orgullosa de me. Lo siento muchísimo.”*

So the moral of Pepe’s adventure is that it doesn’t pay to be an environmental conscious grocery shopper in Chile. Always ask for a plastic bag with your produce, and whatever you do, don’t tell anyone at the Madison Co-ops that we willingly affix barcode stickers to our fruits and vegetables!

The cause of the trouble!

*Translation: "I am sorry. I am sorry. I am a big idiot. Yes. Excuse me. I am so sorry. My brain is not good; it is like ground beef. No, yes, please, it is. My mother would not be proud of me. I am very, very sorry."

Temuco

The last week has brought increasingly nice weather. While the afternoons have clouded over on a few days and while we have had a couple of winter weather blasts with rain and hail, the number of sunny days is on the rise. Hopefully they will begin to outnumber the overcast ones.

Temuco itself is a medium sized town of roughly 235,000 people, and while its main center does not follow any colonial design and while there are few buildings with architectural intrigue, the town is small enough for us to get most anywhere by foot. We have found a few of nice restaurants in the downtown center, including two that offer great lunch specials, complete with a soup or salad. Then there is a great pizza and pasta place near us called Madonna, and there are several more higher end establishments in our area that look promising but we have yet to try.

By and large we cook at home, and go out for drinks or splurge on delectable Onces. The Once is the Chilean mid-evening snack that usually occurs between 5 and 6 pm and comprises mostly of cookies, biscuits, cakes, or tarts and a café or tea. This is a daily ritual that should not be ignored!

Set upon the hills running along the northern side of Temuco is a nature preserve called Cerro Ñielol. It is within walking distance of the main square, and it has much of the natural flora and fauna of the area. So while the town continues to expand and grow this area will remain undeveloped. We decided that it would be fun to give you all a taste of what the town looks like from above and the two pictures below are mpg files from this park looking down on Temuco.


This first one is looking out towards the southeast and stops about ¾ of the way through town.



This second one picks up where the other left off (although it is from a slightly lower elevation) almost looking directly south and continues the sweep to the southwestern and finishes on the western side of the town.




As you can see from these short clips, green is starting to show its color all over the city, which means only one thing, Spring! The trees, bushes and flowers are beginning to bloom in every yard. We also thought it would be fun to share with you all the colors around our neighborhood. The birds, bees and spiders are more and more active everyday, and the buds brighten the houses and give off subtle fragrances that make walking on clear, dry evenings all the more pleasant.

Below are some of our favorite blossoms. To see a larger view, click on the image.

Last Friday, after our walk to the Cerro Ñielol, we decided that there was no better way to celebrate spring’s arrival than with a trip up into the mountains to our north to get one last blast of winter! And continuing on this same line of reasoning we figured that the best way to pay our respects for our love of warmth was to take a thermal bath. So we bought two seats on the Saturday bus past Curacautin to Manzanar. With just over 120,000 pesos in our pockets, we thought we could have a fun mini weekend get away and thermal bath extravaganza.

Saturday couldn’t have been a nicer day. Again, clear skies and on the way north we saw 4 volcanoes that are within view of the National Highway 5 (Pan American Highway) in the Temuco area. They are Volcan Llaima (to the east), Volcan Lonquimay and Volcan Tolhuaca (to the north, northeast), and Volcan Villarica (to the east, southeast). They are all breathtaking, but we don’t have any pictures because they would have been of mostly mud and dirt on a bus window.

Manzanar is a small village along a road that eventually takes you to Argentina. Our hosteria (Abarzua) was a small place run by an 80-year-old woman and her assistant/waitress/room cleaner/fire tender, Antonia. For those of you who know Faulty Towers, think of a female Manuel with a sense of humor and bright smile. The owner and Antonia would always try to speak with me in Spanish (even though we told them I don't speak Spanish) and I would just look at them and point to Sarah and they would continue on with their questioning if we wanted more bread or more soup or informing us to the fact that the lunch we ate was not their normal lunch and that there was a cake cooking and would we like some for our Once...

The hosteria has a wonderful old time feel with a large dining room, old pictures on the wall and very soft beds. On our arrival, we were the only guests there and it seemed as though we had landed at a place that was a has been. But then between 9 and 10 pm another 18 people had arrived, two groups of 9. One group was on their way to the ski slopes and the other was a group of old friends who had been coming up to this area from Viña del Mar since the early 1960s. The two groups brought out the rustic, well lived in feel of the Abarzua and the dining room and guest rooms upstairs grew vibrant and warm.

The owner is in the center and Antonia is on the left of this photo on the right.

We enjoyed the reading area just next to the dining room.

Sunday was another overcast, rainy day but we decided to head down to the pools when the wind and rain let up. The thermal pools are about one kilometer down the road from the hosteria. They are owned and operated by the Manzanar Hotel.

We bought two day passes which included a five course lunch and once our toes touched the water we knew we had made the right decision. These thermal hot springs were divine and the fact that it was cold, rainy and windy made them all the more luxurious. The sun finally came out during lunch and our walk back to the hosteria was refreshing and brisk with clear evening skies.

The thermal pools, the river that runs by and the afternoon light on a budding tree.

Three views of the mountains across from the Hosteria Abarzua in Manzanar.

The Apartment

It is a bright, blue sky and sunshine filled day here in Temuco. The past 10 hours have been the first 10 consecutive hours of clear sky that we have experienced and we are crossing our fingers that that they are not our last. The locals have joked with us that usually the sun only comes out from behind the clouds in Temuco for the months of December and January, so we are ever grateful for the warmth today.

Sarah thought it would be nice if we shared with everyone some aspects of our apartment and our neighborhood and I thought that to be a lovely idea. So this post is about our digs down here in Chile. We are also including some photos at the bottom of the post that give a sense of the housing scene here. Consider it a walking tour of our neighborhood. We hope you will enjoy!

As we mentioned in the previous post, we are renting a "furnished" apartment. Furnished here means that the utilities are included along with some furniture and cutlery. We were thrilled when we first moved in as the apartment represented a freedom from eating out every lunch and dinner, which in this part of South America means steak, chicken, steak, fish, chicken, or fish and steak. Of course, I exaggerate, but only by a little. One very nice aspect of Chile is that salads and veggies are common and you do not get weird looks when you order them with your wine and they are quite tasty.

What we didn't realize or think of when we signed the lease were all the small items that are needed daily. Things like hand towels for drying dishes, Tupperware or similar containers for leftovers, spices, cutting boards, bath mats, toilet bowl cleaners, hangers and the all important corkscrew. I was about to reread the lease, convinced that these items were guaranteed to us, when I was gently reminded that the only Spanish I know is, "mas cervezas, por favor." Yeah, Sarah was right, it is doubtful that Jaime would have included beer in the lease.

So we have had to make do with almost daily treks to the local supermarket chain, Jumbo. Yesterday, I learned how to ask "where are the napkins?" in the mother tongue, but I have not yet learned how to understand the rapid fire response to such elementary questions. I had to recheck every aisle in the store until I reached the back corner. When out of the corner of my eyes, I glimpsed all the paper products, I realized the young woman had told me the napkins were in the back corner. Of course! Unfortunately, I promptly forgot the word for back corner.

Here is our front entrance from our street Leon Gallo.

Our front door... Our living room/breakfast area...

The Kitchen...please note the dish towels hanging from the oven (Yes, we are proud of them!)

The master bedroom and the second bedroom (mostly used for yoga and siestas)

Now that you have seen the tour our small apartment would you like some tea and sweets? Or perhaps you would enjoy some red wine from the Central Valley? Come on down when the time allows. We don't know how long we will be in this city (most likely through December), but if anyone gets the traveling itch, we would be more than happy to host a visitor. Keep in mind that we cook our own meals, mostly steak, chicken, steak, fish, chicken, steak and fish and, of course, the occasional vegetable...When in Chile...!

The Italian heater that keeps us toasty in the early mornings as well as after the sun goes down. This engine of heat is well worth the monthly price of propane!

____________________________________________________________________

The Neighborhood:

We are situated on the western side of the town in an area that is undergoing some redevelopment. We are across from a school and on either side of us there are private residences and shops of various sorts. We are not in the most expensive part of town, but we are within walking distance. The architecture varies from the new larger two story houses to the older style one story stuccoes. One thing is common throughout the town and that is the exterior color choice of bright colors. We suspect it is to combat the overcast nature of Temuco.

These are a couple of the newer designs.

These two houses will most likely be remodeled or redeveloped
within the coming few years.

These are examples of the well maintained older styles.

The First Few Days

When we arrived in Santiago on Sept. 1st, I couldn't help but notice the sweet smell of smoke from wood burning fires. We smelled it again when we stepped off the plane in Temuco on Sunday the 2nd. This aroma of burning wood will no doubt be one of the strong memories I have of this country. While the capital has plenty of old stone buildings and cobble stone streets, many of the residences in Temuco (and I imagine in other smaller cities and towns throughout Chile) have wood burning heaters. We can smell the wood scent nightly and it is reminiscent of Taos in the winter.

Santiago is a fun city to arrive in. The airport is not too overwhelming and the drive into town is pleasant. The city was still stirring from sleep when we arrived. Many of the shops were closed and of the few that were open the owners were busy sweeping their storefront walks.

Since we knew we would be heading on to Temuco on the 2nd, we decided to stay in "el Centro" so as to get a sense of the historic downtown. One of the two highlights of this first Santiago stay was "el Mercado Central", an old central market erected in 1868 and one of the primary fish markets. The Mercado Central also houses an assortment of seafood restaurants within and we ate at Don Augusto, a place that seems to have more flash than substance. However, the setting alone was worth the high priced fare. The other highlight of Santiago was our meal on Saturday night in the hip neighborhood of Bellavista, a place that struck us as having a great resemblance to Palermo in Buenos Aires.

First impressions are always deceiving as the Bellavista neighborhood seemed subdued and quiet when we arrived close to 9 pm. So when we stepped into Étnico and saw half the tables empty but nonetheless were promptly dismissed for not having reservations, we knew this restaurant and the surrounding 3 block area had a late night life. The hostess relented after a few minutes offering two seats at the bar if we wanted them. We quickly opted that the reputation for this restaurant's pisco sours, people watching and sushi platters was worth the lowly status of the bar stools. To our chagrin, we began to suspect that the hostess was biased against foreigners as most of the others in our bar area were not Chileans! The food was great, the drinks were great and it ended up being a lovely way to celebrate our 1st Anniversary (the 2nd, for those of you who have forgotten, not that I did!).

Sunday brought a freshness as we slept off more of the jetlag. We decided to explore the garden terraces of Cerro Santa Lucía, the city’s public garden and central mount for skyline vistas. We scaled the stairs and snapped some shots of the city, which as you may know is in a valley. The flight into Santiago is stunning with all the views of the mountains but once you are in the city all you can typically see are faint outlines of the mountain ridges due to the thick smog. This reminded me of Kathmandu and how while the city is in a lovely valley, it is so filled with pollution that you have to leave the city in order to see the beauty of the surrounding mountains.

The flight to Temuco was smooth and easy, just about one hour. We ended up staying at the Hotel Turismo as many of the places in the guide books that sparkled with promise have seemingly gone out of business. While our taxi driver, Julio, showed us one of his friend's Hospedaje, a cross between a bed and breakfast and a hostel, we thought it to be too small for our needs. The Turismo ended up having the added bonus of free cable (and wi-fi!), so once we unpacked we knew we had made the right decision for the night.

Hotel Turismo

Even though we snatched the room with a mildly good rate (could being the only guests for the night play a role?) our priorities Sunday evening quickly shifted to finding an apartment or a small house, as we had been homeless for close to 3 weeks moving from one friend’s or relative’s guest bedroom to another until our flight out. At dinner, we found some classified ads for rentals and jotted down numbers between games of the one of the women's US Open rounds. And we prayed for nice weather to assist us on our apartment search the following day, Monday.

We woke to drizzles that transitioned into showers in the afternoon and thunder storms in the evening. During our search, we saw a place way out in the middle of nowhere with the help of a realtor/property manager, we saw a small house with no insulation and hardly any light and a wood stove and poster pictures of Indian (South Asia) Indigenous peoples including 2 from Ladakh(!), dozens of run down houses for sale and a semi furnished apartment in a row of apartments owned by Jaime, which included utilities and hot water and trash and plates and silverware and glasses and beds and chairs (any ideas on where we live?)...

We were delighted with Jaime's apartment and told him we would call him the next day by 11 a.m., as we needed to think about it. We discussed the pros and cons on our walk home, in the rain showers, and within 45 minutes of being back at the hotel we called him to ask if we could move in, tomorrow. He said yes (Relief!). We went out that night to celebrate the end of our eating out and had a great bottle of wine, "Gato Negro", with our steaks. This wine label, from the San Pedro vineyard in central Chile, has worked its way into our home, and we have come to know and love it as though it were a long lost friend.

An outside view of the apartment.

The main plaza of Temuco with the monument depicting the struggle
between the Spanish and the Mapuche.

One of the streets of downtown Temuco.

Our new family friend.

The Plot

In the weeks leading up to our departure for Chile and Argentina, many people asked if we would keep in touch. “Of course!” was our response. Having lived for extended periods of time overseas, we both welcomed the audience for our letters home. But as the days passed and we said our goodbyes to more of our friends and family, we began hearing the additional, “…and pictures, will you be sure to send us your photos?”

Now that was a new one, at least for us. It is 2007, but we have always shared the photos from our trips with friends and family after we returned, not before we came home. In fact, our photo sharing and trip recollections are our main test of true friendship among our acquaintances. We need to know who will and who will not sit through our riveting slideshows. “Here is the one of the butter lamp at Hemis Gompa in Ladakh. Oh and here is the one of the 3 story Guru Padmasambhava and the butter lamp at Hemis. Oh and this one really captures the way the butter melts in the large silver butter lamp chalice…”

All of this posting of our photos on the web during our time away begs the question, if we post all our photos then what will we do when we get back to the States? Unemployment?! No one will let us couch surf while looking for apartments back home if they already had all of our stories and photos! We will have nothing to give back in reciprocity for their kindness or the ice cream we plan on devouring! And what will we talk about when we see friends and family for the first time? “Um, the weather’s nice this time of year in this part of the world, eh?”

It is a good thing we have some friends in Madison that don’t read blogs. So we decided to market the idea of a trip blog. We tested this idea out on a few who asked us to keep in touch and we were ill prepared for their answer, “Yes that would be great, what is the address?” Um, hadn’t quite gotten that far, this was just a market test, don't you know.

By the time we left for the airport for our flight to South America on August 31, we had a list of friends and relatives anxiously awaiting the first post and the first pictures. And so my anxiety grew when we didn’t have our blog live and our first posts placed upon landing in Santiago. After all, everyone wants to see the “here we are on the plane, in route and tired and the headphones don’t work and American Airlines is quite cheap because you don’t get free beer anymore” photos (like the one below) and the all important “we’ve just landed and this international airport looks exactly like all the other international airports in the world only it is much colder and the hallways are longer and that damn reciprocity tax seems awfully weird but it smells different here, and oh, you can’t tell from this angle but they do have green roof gardens in Chile” photo (not included below), right? Whew, this blog stuff is tough work!

This anxiety (newly listed in the DSM IV* as “the detoxification of work and recovery in an environment other than the office”) is stifling and is, in fact, a syndrome. I have read that it is a form of mental agitation mixed with aimless wandering which many of the locals here call "la fiebre de turismo". (Haven't been able to translate this yet.) I do know though that this fiebre makes me want to take a nap, which I have done numerous days in a row, (Viva la siesta!) and drink wine all hours of the day, which I contemplate every morning. (Do scrambled eggs and Cabernets go well together?)

So I got to thinking, what will tie this whole blog thing together? Are pictures enough, even if they are only of the rain soaked and overcast town of Temuco? I wouldn’t want to waste anyone’s precious time on the office laptop sifting through pictures of rain on streets, nine angles of the same volcano in Southern Chile or any of my encounters with Patagonian Penguins. No, I want to waste my friends’ and family’s precious time with really riveting stories regarding how we got kicked out of a cab, how good the meat tastes here, and how hard it is to find slippers in Chile.

The only blog that I have ever really read was my brother in law’s www.inacanyon.blogspot.com from last year when he was awarded a Watson Fellowship to travel hither and yon to explore the world’s canyons. (Oh and there is another one overheardlines.blogspot.com that you should all read about lines overheard in daily life compiled by a playwright in San Fran, very funny stuff, esp. the ones posted on July 25th and June 20th of this year.) So I thought to myself, “What am I going to do with this great responsibility of blogging?”

And then it came to me in a glorious moment in a Cathedral off the main square in Santiago, “Steal Scott’s original (hence never used) Watson Fellowship proposal!”** And yes, after looking at all gold lined ceilings in the main Cathedral and all the other Spanish procured Chilean resources that went into this building, I knew that divine inspiration was in the air (or was that must from the pews?) and stealing from Scott was the answer!

This blog will focus on the local drinks of all the areas we visit in the coming year with some attention given to the locals who drink these drinks! Fortunately for me, the first part will be somewhat easy: Qué toma la gente de aqui? [Trans. “What do the people from here drink?”] Answer: Chileans love Pisco Sours and both Chileans and Argentines love wine.

The second part might be harder as I am just enrolling in some Spanish classes and hopefully will get a tutor on Tuesday but I have one of the most important questions ready: Está usted el loco de aqui? [Trans. “Are you one of the locals?]*** Spanish may in fact be easier than I had originally thought!

So now that I have begun to uncover this pressing question of what the locals drink, I can go ahead and post those all important pictures of Pisco Sours and where we ate dinner last night! The pictures of overcast Temuco are forthcoming.

Happy Reading.


*DSM IV

**I may also throw in some lines overheard at the local panaderías and confiterías while waiting in the cashier’s line.

***Yes, all you Spanish speakers out there, I know what is written is not the preferred translation. (Sarah has been giving me quizzical looks all morning.)

On the American Airlines flight before we learned
that the drinks did not flow freely in coach.

The skyline of Santiago on Sunday, September 2.

The view out the front door of Hotel Vegas in Centro Santiago.

Along an old Santiago street.